The commercial success of a fashion item does not automatically entail recognition of copyright protection (in the absence of proof of creativity and artistic value)

Gaia Bellomo - Associate

Legal protection of fashion designers’ creations counts several means: from unfair competition to design protection, shape marks, to the protection offered by copyright law (L. No. 633/1941): these instruments offer different kinds of protection and can be used only if specific requirements are met, which must always prooved.

It is common in this field seeing fashion labels trying to "dress up" their products with a variety of intellectual property titles, registering them, for example, as shape marks or as industrial design, in order to increase the level of protection against possible imitations.

However, although protection by registration of intellectual property rights in the fashion industry is particularly widespread, the temporary nature of the rights conferred by registration may be an obstacle to the protectability of garments or accessories when their commercial success is particularly long-lasting: in these cases, in order to have access to protection extended in time and which goes beyond the formalities required for registration, it is necessary to prove not only the particular liking of the public, but also the creativity and artistic value of the product to aim to copyright protection.

An emblematic case of the possible coexistence of several levels of protection for fashion items and of the difficulties connected to the proof of the creativity and artistic value of a product aiming to be considered as copyrighetd is the one recently dealt with by the Court of Milan.

The case concerned the marketing of bags imitating the famous "Le Pliage" bag by Longchamp, protected by two European Union three-dimensional trademark registrations claiming its peculiar trapezoidal shape, and also characterised by the combination of further original elements, such as the rounded flap, the tubular handles and the contrast in colour and materials between the nylon and leather elements.

The plaintiff claimed that the "Le Pliage" bag model was created in 1993 and has been still marketed worldwide through more than 1,500 sales outlets and also online and requested protection against imitations, invoking not only the protection provided for on the basis of three-dimensional trade mark registrations (pursuant to articles 2 and 20 C.P.I. and art.9 EU Reg. no. 2017/1001), but also the violation of the rights of the author and of the principles protecting fair competition on the market (art. 2598 c.c.).

The Court first of all recognised the infringement of the plaintiff's three-dimensional European trademarks insofar as it was established not only their distinctive capacity due to the manner of use and presentation of the trademark itself and the information and suggestions conveyed through advertising and the perception that the shape determines on the consumer public, but also the taking over, by the imitative bags, of all the distinctive elements of the "Le Pliage" model.

With regard to the invoked copyright protection, referring to its own case law on this point, the judgment ruled that it was not possible to identify in this case the actual existence of the artistic character necessary for the form of the bag to enjoy such protection.

The Judges found that, apart from the undeniable commercial success gained on the market, the plaintiff had not enclosed the elements that should have confirmed the presence of an artistic value in the creation of the external appearance of the bag model in question.

In other words, there was no evidence at all of the requirements of creativity and artistic value which presuppose the applicability of Art. 2.10 of the Copyright Act.

As is well known, artistic value can be inferred from a series of objective parameters, such as the recognition by cultural and institutional circles of the existence of aesthetic and artistic qualities, exposure in exhibitions or museums, publication in specialist magazines, the awarding of prizes, the acquisition of a market value so high as to transcend that linked solely to its functionality or the creation by a well-known artist and, in the absence of evidence, it is not possible to have access to the protection provided for by the law on copyright.

Italian version

• Intellectual Property

• Fashion Law

Photography and fashion. Clovers obtains a favorable ruling from the Court of Milan on the unauthorized use of a photograph on a fashion collection.

Gianpaolo Todisco – Partner

Laura Bussoli - Associate

One of the gaments of the collection.

Last week the Court of Milan sentenced the company founded by stylist Antonio Marras to pay damages to the American photographer, Daniel J. Cox, for the unauthorized reproduction of a photograph of the latter on clothing.

Daniel J Cox is one of the most successful nature photographers and author of several covers of National Geographic magazine and he know as being the author of a monographic book dedicated to wolves.

The controversy arose when Fashion designer Antonio Marras used this image without the author's consent to develop its fashion collection.

The image was reproduced on a series of women's garments and presented during the woman’s 2014-2015 F/W fashion show in Milan and the collection was distributed and marketed worldwide.

After the parties unsuccessfully completed negotiations aimed at settling the case, the photographer invoked injunctive relief against unauthorized use of the image as well as compensation for damages quantified at the request of the same in the so-called price of consent.

The Court ruled that the image printed on several garments created by Marras coincided with the photograph shot by the plaintiff and met the requirements of the artistic and creative character necessary to access the "enhanced" protection provided by the Copyright Law.

Indeed, Italian copyright law grants photographs a dual level of protection, distinguishing between photographic works (or artistic photographs) and simple photographs.

The orginal photograph. Copyright Daniel J. Cox. - Natural Exposures. All rights reserved.

The difference - which is not always easy in practice - is traced by art. 87 of Italian Copyright Law which define as simple photographs "images of people or aspects, elements or facts of natural and social life, obtained by photographic or similar process, including reproductions of works of figurative art and film stills" and recognize the same protection as neighboring right.

 Conversely, there is no explicit legislative definition of an artistic photographic work  in the Copyright Law and this is left to a “case by case” "practical" evaluation by judges on the basis of a series of indexes.

Artistic photographs are treated like other artistic works have access full protection (up to 70 after the death of their author), whereas simple photographs, on the other hand, enjoy limited protection (20 years from the date of photograph’s production) and the photographer is only entitled to fair compensation in case of unlawful use.

A first and fundamental point of the decision rendered in the Cox/Marras case, concerns the recognition of the artistic value of photography: in the Court’s opinion the artistic value lies "in the creative capacity of the author, i.e. in his personal imprint, in the choice of the subject to be portrayed as well as in the moment of realization and reworking of the shot, such as to arouse suggestions that transcend the common aspect of the reality represented.

The choice to portray the animal in its natural environment and in adverse climatic conditions makes the shot "the result of study and careful photographic analysis by the author" and contributes to the recognition of its artistic value according to the Court.

It is also the technique that comes in this case in relief in order to correctly frame the image within the protected and protectable photographic works: "a wise blurring of the surrounding environment, thus enhancing the expression of the represented subject ... and evoking, in this way, peculiar suggestions in the observer such as to go beyond the mere graphic representation of the animal (...) "a wise use of chiaroscuro and the use, with creative purposes, of light ". Last, the specific authoritative recognition of the artist in the United States and the publishing of the photograph in a monographic work also helped the Court understand the nature of the work.

Therefore, once the artistic nature of the work has been ascertained, the use by the defendant company for commercial purposes of the photograph, by placing it on an item of clothing included in the women's collection, in the absence of any authorization from the author, "constitutes an open violation of the author's right to compensation for damages".

It is interesting to note that the Court of Milan rejected the defendant's objections to the alleged lawfulness of the use of the photograph, since the same can be found on the Google search engine.

The Court found that - "the mere availability on the web of a photograph certainly does not constitute a presumption of absence of authoritative rights, on the contrary, the burden of ascertaining whether or not third parties have rights".

In conclusion, the Court stated that the work of the photographer Daniel J. Cox should be considered to be protected by copyright law, as a creative work in the particular field of photography, ordering the defendants, jointly and severally, to pay damages to the applicant and ordering the publication of the operative part of the judgment by and at the expense of the defendants in the periodical Vanity Fair.

Through this judgment, the Court of Milan has analyzed several legal issues which are constantly being debated experts in the world of intellectual property.

Nike Shoes will be Protected by the Blockchain

Nike has been recently awarded a blockchain patent by the USPTO to create digital versions of its shoes. Nike said that its customers will now be able to register the purchase of their shoes with a unique identification number.

An equivalent digital version of the shoe will be created through a cryptocurrency wallet connected with the user’s unique ID. The Blockchain will help users verify the authenticity of the shoes that the customers are purchasing.

The digital version of the shoes will contain a cryptographic token based on the Ethereum platform. In addition, it will also have information about the physical features of the product, including color, the material used, manufacturing details, and their “eco-sustainability” factor.

The registration of the product on blockchain would allow users to “securely sell or trade” the tangible form of the shoes.

It is noted that the “rights” to sneakers can be stored in a digital wallet along with the cryptocurrency. Also, with the help of digital media, Nike will be able to control sales volumes of CryptoKicks. The company has not yet announced the launch date.